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CLAYBUSTER100's Shotshell Reloading Page
Choosing a Load

Some tid-bits that might make the process easier.

If you are like me, you already have a favorite target and or hunting load. You can reload really close to factory loads, sometimes exactly, by following the right recipe. Say you want to duplicate a favorite Winchester load, you use a Winchester manual and viola the exact recipe is there, but if it happens to be a load that the manufacture doesnt produce all the components, case, primer, powder, wad column and shot then you use a respectable manual like Lyman, Alliant, Accurate, IMR, etc. You can come really close to the factory load; all you have to do is decipher the data on the factory box. It will be marked with gauge, length, Dr. Equiv. (dram equivalent), shot weight and size.
The shot weight and size is a no brainer, the case or hull, as I like to call it, well, what brand of shells do you buy? DUH.
The dram equivalent is a whole different story.

Dram Equivalency

When Black Powder was the only thing available, it was measured in drams. It took a given number of drams to achieve a given velocity. Todays Smokeless powder is measured in grains. There is a monumental difference in the two. To measure smokeless powder in drams, the chamber pressure would soar and, could and probably would, have GRAVE results. I neither know of, nor have heard of, any formula to convert drams to grains or vice versa. You need to know the velocity and shot weight of the load you want to duplicate. Some manuals will list drams and their associated velocity some dont.
Say, for example, the load you want to duplicate has 2- dr. eq., 1 1/8 ounces shot; the velocity would be 1145 fps. (feet per second).


This web site is NOT designed to be a reloading guide. DO NOT attempt to reload until you have received competent instructions or have read and understand a reloading manual